Introducing Relay of Voices

Thursday, July 11, 2019

This summer and fall, an intriguing project will take place in communities along the Mississippi River. 

Relay of Voices, a project of the nonprofit A House Unbuilt, is “a research expedition traveling down the Mississippi River with the goal of gathering ‘voices’ from the landscape and individual residents of the river region.”

From the Relay of Voices website

“Relay of Voices is spearheaded by artist, athlete, and Louisiana native, Victoria Bradford Styrbicki, who is working to connect the voices of river communities by traveling the 2,400 miles of the river at a pedestrian scale with the assistance of a “relay team” made up of support staff and regional volunteers. … A primary reason for choosing the Mississippi River region was the dichotomy of rural and urban communities there, with many of them still making a living off the water and land.”

Here’s a look at one of the first voices of the project:

“Terry Larson, mid sixties, born and raised in Itasca Township, now lives on Wolf Lake some 30-40 miles away, still along the Mississippi. Family land—Gulsvig Landing—remains an important fixture of his and his family’s life here at Itasca. He’s often considered the “first man of the river,” and he has been interviewed and written about many, many times before. He’s a practiced interviewee, coming with prepared stories and recitations, and yet the sentiment feels true and authentic. He launched our time together speaking of his family history and land as we met right upon it, and he wandered into a more personal story of his experience with injury—how it changed his life to suffer and overcome pain, with much thanks to the river.”

(Photo courtesy of Relay of Voices)

Outdoor dining on the Great River Road

Summer is here, and it’s time to take advantage of the beautiful weather and outstanding views all along the Mississippi River. Here’s a look at just a few of the great places along the Great River Road where you can dine outside—be sure to stop in for a bite (and some great scenery) on your next road trip.

Minnesota

Head to Levee Park on Riverfront Street in downtown Winona to grab a seat on the patio and enjoy drinks or dinner at the Boat House. You’ll find classic Minnesota dishes with a twist, like the Boat House Lucy, the restaurant’s take on a Juicy Lucy—an 8-ounce grass-fed burger stuffed with Ellsworth Dairy cheese curds.

Wisconsin

Named by locals as the best outdoor dining in La Crosse, Huck Finn’s on the Water offers a scenic setting for your next lunch or dinner. Head outside for a seat on their massive patio overlooking North Bay on Pool 8 of the Mississippi River. Order a classic burger or try one of their signature drinks like Herb Lemonade.

Iowa

A restaurant and brew pub located in pretty much the middle of the Mississippi River between Iowa and Wisconsin, Catfish Charlie’s in Dubuque offers a fun setting for lunch and dinner. Sample unique items like alligator nuggets or catfish fingers or choose from nearly a dozen beers that are brewed on-site.

Tennessee

Truly one of the most scenic spots along the Great River Road, Blue Bank Resort overlooks the waters of Reelfoot Lake in northwestern Tennessee. Reelfoot Lake is a flooded former cypress forest known for its outstanding fishing, so it only makes sense that fish is prevalent on the menu at Blue Bank Resort’s on-site restaurant, The Fishhouse. Diners can choose from Southern-fried catfish, shrimp, oysters and more, as well as chicken, steaks and pork, all while enjoying the views of Reelfoot Lake.

Mississippi

Want a great view with your dinner? Head to 10 South Rooftop Bar & Grill in downtown Vicksburg. Take in an amazing sunset over the Mississippi River and then enjoy a delicious dinner from a menu featuring classic dishes and Southern favorites like chicken & waffles, shrimp & grits, and blackened catfish.

Louisiana

When you’re in Louisiana, you need to sample some seafood, and one of the best places to do so is Parrain’s Seafood Restaurant in Baton Rouge. Located in the mid-city district of Louisiana’s capital, Parrain’s offers fresh, high-quality seafood in dishes like andouille-encrusted fish, crawfish etouffee and New Orleans BBQ shrimp. Grab a seat on their patio and dig in!

Don’t forget to share your favorite flavors of the Great River Road here. And be sure to check out other travelers’ recommendations and helpful info about restaurants, agritourism attractions and more all along the Great River Road here.

Tasty summer finds along the Great River Road

Tuesday, July 09, 2019

Summer is an excellent time to explore some of the tasty finds along the Great River Road. Here are some can’t miss stops in Minnesota and Wisconsin.

Photo courtesy of Winona Farmers Market

Winona Farmers Market, Winona, MN

The Winona Farmers Market is one of the best along the Great River Road. It happens every Saturday, rain or shine, from 7:30am to noon at Levee Park in Winona, Minnesota. Produce that’s debuting in July includes cabbage, cucumbers, corn, peppers, potatoes, raspberries, tomatoes and zucchini. You can also find baked and canned goods, honey, eggs, teas, flowers, bread, coffee, meats, plus prices that can’t be beat!

Photo courtesy of Elmaro Vineyard

Elmaro Vineyard, Trempealeau, WI

At Elmaro Vineyard in Trempealeau, Wisconsin, the views are just as amazing as the wines you’ll sample. Enjoy the landscape of nearby Perrot State Park and the Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge while you sit on the patio and sample any of their nearly two dozen varieties of wine. Their grapes are grown in Wisconsin and Minnesota and their wines are made from delicious fruits like apples, raspberries, cranberries, cherries and plums. You can even arrange a picnic here, with wine, cheese, crackers and sausages on a private picnic site with a blanket and umbrella.

Photo courtesy of Piggy’s Restaurant & Blues Lounge

Piggy’s Restaurant & Blues Lounge, La Crosse, WI

Piggy’s Restaurant has called La Crosse, Wisconsin home since 1980. This hot spots is nationally famous for BBQ baby back ribs, but also for their pork chops, prime rib and steaks. If you like smoked meat, this is the place for you! Their hardwood smoker does its magic with hickory and Minnesota Applewood from the nearby hills and bluffs. Don’t miss live blues music in the Blues Lounge downstairs on Saturday nights, and check out their wine cellar, with more than 60 options to choose from!

Photo courtesy of Isles Bun & Coffee

Isles Bun & Coffee, Minneapolis, MN

Isles Bun & Coffee is an itty bitty bake shop just a couple blocks from Lake of the Isles in Minneapolis, Minnesota. They’re known for their morning rolls, especially cinnamon, caramel and caramel pecan rolls, but are also famous for their Puppy Dog Tails, which are smaller versions of their cinnamon rolls, twisted up. Here they use only real ingredients, no food starch or corn syrup and everything is made from scratch. Don’t be afraid to go for the extra frosting on your rolls – you won’t be sorry you did!

Five sweet treats you shouldn’t miss on the Great River Road

Wednesday, June 26, 2019

Save room for dessert—here are some of the most iconic desserts you’ll find along the Mississippi River, from handcrafted pies to freshly fried pastries.

Homemade candy, ice cream and chocolate at Lagomarcino’s

If you’re in the mood for ice cream when you’re driving through the Quad Cities of Illinois and Iowa, there’s one place you have to stop: Lagomarcino’s. With locations in downtown Moline, Ill., (the original) and Davenport, Iowa (opened in 1997), this soda fountain/candy store/ice cream parlor has been in business since 1908 and still makes their own candy, chocolates and ice cream to this day. In 2006, Lagomarcino’s received a James Beard America’s Classics award.

World-famous beignets at Café du Monde

There’s no shortage of delicious food in the Crescent City, and that applies doubly to anything targeting your sweet tooth. Pralines, bananas foster, bread pudding, pecan pie—that’s enough to satisfy any connoisseur of desserts. But the one thing that’s sure to draw a crowd are Café du Monde’s world-famous beignets. Head to the French Market (or one of the eight other locations in the New Orleans metro area) to sample these fried-dough delights that are covered with powdered sugar. Don’t forget the chicory coffee au lait!

Pie at the Stockholm (Wis.) Pie Company

Want a pie like the ones Grandma used to make? Well, there’s no place that’ll get you closer than the famous Stockholm Pie Company, where fruit and nut pies are handcrafted from scratch daily at this store in the charming Wisconsin Great River Road town of Stockholm. You’ll also find cream pies, seasonal specialties and travel-size 6-inch pies available daily, as well as a general store featuring Wisconsin cheese, craft beer, wine, local specialties and gift items.

Banana pudding at the Fulton Banana Festival

When you think of bananas, your first thought probably isn’t a town of 2,500 people on the Kentucky-Tennessee border. But Fulton, Ky., (and South Fulton, Tenn., its neighbor to the south) have hosted the Banana Festival for more than 50 years, commemorating Fulton’s location as a prime railroad spot between New Orleans and Canada in the late 1800s. (At one point, more than 70 percent of the bananas consumed in the U.S. passed through Fulton.) A highlight of the festival, held annually in September, is the creation of a one-ton banana pudding—said to be the world’s largest, and who are we to argue—that is distributed to hungry festival attendees.

Mississippi mud pie at The Crown Restaurant

Head south to Indianola, Miss.—home to the B.B. King Museum & Delta Interpretive Center—to find this Mississippi delicacy at the highly regarded The Crown Restaurant, which has received attention in everything from Southern Living to Cook’s Illustrated. This cozy restaurant is only open for lunch (11am-2pm Tuesday through Saturday), but offers great confections from head cook Evelyn Roughton, including the famous Mississippi mud pie—a rich dessert made with pudding, cake, whipped cream, biscuits, chocolate and other delights (it gets its name for its resemblance to the state’s dark soil).

(Photo: Illinois Office of Tourism)

Breweries, wineries & distilleries on the Great River Road

Monday, June 24, 2019

Cheers!

Whether you’re looking for unique microbrews, handcrafted spirits or a winery with an amazing view, you’ll discover some great places to raise your glass along the Great River Road.

Here are a few spots to spend your next happy hour.

North

  • Minnesota: Beer lovers are in luck when they visit the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and Saint Paul. There, you’ll find literally dozens of breweries, from sprawling complexes with on-site restaurants to tiny taprooms. Local favorites include Surly, Fair State Cooperative, Indeed Brewing, Bad Weather Brewing and Summit.
  • Wisconsin: You might think you’re in Napa Valley as you enjoy a crisp white or full-bodied red on the patio at Elmaro Vineyard in Trempealeau and gaze over the awe-inspiring landscape of nearby Perrot State Park and the Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge.
  • Iowa: A true “grain to glass” distillery, Mississippi River Distilling Company creates its small-batch gin, vodka and more with grain harvested within 25 miles of their facility in downtown LeClaire. And don’t miss the vineyards of the Iowa Wine Trail, which passes through towns like Clinton, Marquette and Guttenberg.
  • Illinois: In the charming town of Galena, you’ll find great shops, a historic downtown, and tasty restaurants. You’ll also find Blaum Bros. Distilling Co., one of the state’s #IllinoisMade businesses—makers, creators and artisans that show off the state’s entrepreneurial spirit. Stop by for a tour and a taste of their gin, vodka, bourbon and other spirits.

Middle

  • Missouri: Sure, St. Louis is famously home to the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, but there are plenty of other beermakers in “The Lou,” as well.  Take a tour and stop for a tasting at award-winning breweries like Schlafly, Urban Chestnut and Perennial Artisan Ales.
  • Tennessee: The Volunteer State’s claim to spirits doesn’t just come from Mr. Jack Daniel in Lynchburg. Memphis is home to Old Dominick Distillery, founded in 1866 by Domenico Canale. Five generations later, business is still booming—Memphis visitors can tour the factory, sample Old Dominick’s whiskeys and vodkas in the tasting room and grab a bite at the on-site restaurant.

South

  • Mississippi: Founded in 1716, Natchez is the oldest city on the Mississippi River. Amidst all that history, visitors will find great food and drink, too, including the Natchez Brewing Company, which offers tours and tastings at its facility downtown, and Charboneau Distillery, home to the first legally distilled rum produced in Mississippi.
  • Louisiana: Where to start? (New Orleans. New Orleans is always the answer.) OK, so the Big Easy might not technically be “the city that invented the cocktail,” but you’ll find several drinks that were perfected here, including the Hurricane, the Rum Punch and the Pimm’s Cup. Thirsty to learn more? Visit the Museum of the American Cocktail, which offers education programs, tastings and more.

(Photo: Blaum Bros. Distilling Co. in Galena, courtesy of the Illinois Office of Tourism)

Where to find great barbecue on the Great River Road

Monday, June 17, 2019

Where there’s smoke, there’s… some of the best barbecue in the United States.

Sure, you might automatically (and correctly) think of St. Louis and Memphis as barbecue hot spots on the Mississippi River, but the truth is, you can find delectable BBQ at restaurants up and down the Great River Road—it’s just a matter of knowing where to go.

Here’s a region-by-region breakdown of where you can find the best brisket, ribs and more along America’s greatest drive.

North

Even if they don’t have the traditions of their Southern cousins, the states of the northern Great River Road still have plenty of restaurants that produce delicious barbecue. In the Twin Cities, visitors can find authentic Carolina barbecue at Revival, which has restaurants in Minneapolis, Saint Paul, and St. Louis Park.

Head to La Crosse—the biggest city on Wisconsin’s section of the Great River Road—for great bites at Piggy’s (and don’t miss live blues music in the Smokin’ Blues Lounge downstairs on Saturday nights). Across the river in Bellevue, Iowa, you’ll find another barbecue-and-blues restaurant at Flatted Fifth Blues & BBQ, housed in a historic grist mill on the banks of the Mississippi.

A short drive from St. Louis, Beast Craft BBQ Co. in Belleville, Illinois, has won lots of awards since it opened in 2015, including nods from Thrillist (who called it one of the 33 best BBQ joints in America) and Food & Wine magazine (Illinois’ best barbecue).

Middle

Now this is barbecue country. We could do a whole article—or several, in fact—on the offerings in St. Louis and Memphis alone, but we’ll pick a few that you must check out. In St. Louis, don’t miss Pappy’s Smokehouse near Saint Louis University; while you’re waiting in line for their award-winning ribs, check out the autographed menus plastered on the walls.

In the tiny town of Bardwell, Kentucky, locals flock to Prince Pit BBQ (which also has a store in nearby Barlow). Further south in Memphis, you’ll find delicious barbecue almost anywhere, but be sure to visit the iconic Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous, which has welcomed rock stars, presidents and regular folks alike to its alley-front location since 1948.

South

Did you know that Arkansas’ only James Beard Award-winning restaurant can be found in a town of just 3,500 people? Well, that’s how good the reputation is for Jones Bar-B-Q Diner, which has been serving customers since at least 1910 and may be the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the state.

Clarksdale, Mississippi, is home to the infamous Crossroads—the place where Robert Johnson supposedly sold his soul in exchange for his unearthly musical talent. Just a few steps away from the marker commemorating this location is Abe’s Bar-B-Q, which has been serving locals and visitors to unfettered acclaim for decades.

Louisiana is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, so it only makes sense that you’ll find po’ boys and fried chicken in addition to the barbecue favorites on the menu at The Francis Smokehouse & Specialty Meats in St. Francisville. What started out as a specialty meat shop now serves hundreds of sandwiches daily; don’t miss their fancier relative, The Francis Southern Table & Bar, next door.

Celebrate June Dairy Month along the Great River Road

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

Summer is here, June is National Dairy Month, let’s talk about the (very) serious subject of cheese and ice cream.

Photo via The Pearl Ice Cream Parlor Facebook

For an old-timey ice cream experience, hit up The Pearl Ice Cream Parlor in La Crosse, Wisconsin. This charming stop is a “Best of La Crosse County” winner for both its ice cream and old fashioned candy. Located in the historic downtown of this beautiful river town, the store looks almost like a museum, beautifully preserved. They make their ice cream in house (nearly two dozen flavors from real Wisconsin cream) along with fresh baked waffle cones. The Pearl is located a couple of short blocks from the Mississippi River so you can take your ice cream and stroll down by the water on a warm afternoon.

Photo via Nelson Cheese Factory Facebook

Feeling cheesy? Head to the Nelson Cheese Factory in Nelson, Wisconsin. Not only do they sell real Wisconsin cheese, but varieties from all over the world, so it’s a great place to pick up a rare or hard-to-find cheese for the connoisseur in your life. They also sell to-die-for garlic cheese curds and homemade ice cream (we recommend rum cherry!). While you’re in the area, make a stop at the National Eagle Center across the river in Wabasha, Minnesota to watch our national bird!

Photo via Red Wing Confectionery Facebook

Another worthy stop in Minnesota is the Red Wing Confectionery in Red Wing. They have tons of rotating flavors of ice cream (try the hand-dipped waffle cones!) and happen to make some of the best root beer floats you’ve ever tried. Not related to dairy, but still delicious, are their homemade candies, including salt water taffy, chocolate-covered fruit and nuts and gourmet truffles. Take your treats across the street to LaGrange Park and sit by the fountain, or walk a quick block to take in views of the Mighty Mississippi.

 

Notes from an epic adventure

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

While many people travel part of the Great River Road every year, a select group drives the entire 3,000-mile route. Here are some stories and photos from people who have taken on the whole 10-state route. Sound like fun? Order the free Great River Road 10-State Map and start planning your own adventure. 

 

I received the map and I thought that this would be a nice trip, so I got in my car by myself and took off on one of the most enjoyable trips in my 82 years. I could write a book on this trip all good things about the trip. This summer I am going to finish the trip from St. Louis down to Venice, LA.. To sum it up, FANTASTIC,” – Robert B, St. Louis

 

We have visited the USA on many occasions and our plan was to visit those state we had not visited. Our road trip started in Nashville, TN. We then traveled through KY, WV, OH, IN, IL and WI before commencing our adventure down the Great River Road in MN. The river was covered in snow for many miles through MN, WI, IA, IL, MO, KY, TN, AR, MS and LA – despite the extreme weather, there were many wonderful sights and places to visit. We have now visited all 48 states and Hawaii – only Alaska to go!” – David and Cathie M., Queensland, Australia

My favorite part of the drive involved travel on the levees… from the area between Baton Rouge & Natchez, up the Mississippi Delta, from Memphis to Cairo, IL, the Cahokia mounds, and the Driftless Area.” – Lucas P., New York, New York

My husband and I spent periods of time in several river towns when he was working temporary jobs in them and were enchanted by the river. Decided to one day drive the Great River Road. He passed away before we could, but I drove it accompanied by our little rat terrier, Buck. It was a beautiful drive and I loved visiting with people and learning the history of different areas. I have a 50,000 words journal with pictures of the trip and am looking for a publisher.” – Pat W., Manhattan, Kansas

I drove the entirety of the GRR from North to South – covering almost every mile on both sides (a few were underwater thanks to the flooding last Autumn). I can be mobile for work, so I’ve started driving the long roads in the Lower 48 in an RV – it was your 80th, so I took the opportunity to explore. It was a 90-day trip, including all the loop backs – I started on the 7th of Sept at the Headwaters and wrapped it up south of the Venice Marina on the 6th of Dec.” – Sara N., Land O Lakes, Florida

I traveled the first half of the GRR in 2016, from Venice, LA to St Louis, and back to NOLA… then in 2017, from St Louis to Grand Rapids, MN and back to Chicago. I have spent the past five years documenting the scenic backways of the United States. My favorite part of the drive was finding dirt roads, old abandoned routes, remote places, and especially driving up on levees. Mississippi Delta, Driftless Area and Cahokia Mounds were some favorite parts.” – Randy R., New York, New York

We traveled the Road last Summer from 8/9/18 to 8/25/18. The reason – just wanted to experience the whole trip from North to South. Plus, we like road trips that include lots of 2 lane highways…from the beautiful Headwaters of Itasca State Park, where we could walk across the Mississippi, all the way down to Venice, LA where it ends into the Gulf of Mexico, it was a spectacular road river ride!” – Howard B, La Quinta, California

“I love road trips. Having done Route 66 a few years ago, this seemed like a natural. At the end of each day, I did a thumbnail sketch of the day which I shared with friends via email and FaceBook…BTW: This epic journey was done by myself, my wife, and my sister. We drove the entire length, from Lake Itasca to the Gulf. – Ronald B., Clovis, California

See the spring migration along the river

Tuesday, May 07, 2019

Spring is an incredible time to go birdwatching along the Mississippi River! Check out some of our favorite stops to watch the spring migration in Wisconsin and Minnesota.

Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge

Photo by Upper Mississippi National Wildlife Refuge

The Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge is actually 240,000 acres and 261 miles long, running through Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa and Illinois and lies within the Mississippi Flyway, the migratory path for birds.

An excellent spot to visit is Lake Onalaska, just north of La Crosse, Wisconsin. The lake is actually a pool of the Mississippi River, and the river’s the widest spot. Bald eagles are frequent visitors, as are tundra swans, and If you’re lucky you’ll catch the migration of canvasback ducks – there have been reports of 75,000-100,000 of them using Lake Onalaska as a springtime staging area (approximately one third of their North American population).

Pikes Peak State Park

Photo by Travel Iowa

Another great stop in the Wildlife Refuge is Pikes Peak State Park in McGregor, Iowa. Here you can make the trek up the 500 foot bluff for views of where the Mississippi and Wisconsin rivers meet. You’ll find plenty of songbirds here – eastern bluebirds, warblers, catbirds, pileated woodpeckers, hummingbirds, but eagles and pelicans too. Be sure to explore the effigy mounds while you birdwatch.

National Eagle Center

Photo by National Eagle Center

The observation deck at the National Eagle Center in Wabasha, Minnesota is a great place to view eagles in the wild as they soar above the Mississippi. They even offer eagle viewing field trips that will take you to hotspots along and near the river. Inside the center are two floors of interactive exhibits where you can climb inside a nest and test your strength against our national bird’s. Be sure to stay for the daily demonstrations where you can meet bald and golden eagles face to face.

Barn Bluff

Photo by Miranda Mae via Facebook

Barn Bluff is another beautiful spot to see eagles, located in Red Wing, Minnesota. If you make the 340-foot climb up to the top of the bluff, you’ll see them soaring over the river and bluffs, along with turkey vultures and pelicans too. Barn Bluff is a hotspot for nature photography too, so bring your camera!

See what’s happening on the Great River Road

Friday, April 26, 2019

The Great River Road has scores of iconic attractions, impressive vistas and natural wonders, and it’s possible to get a preview of many of these places online. Webcams up and down the Great River Road provide a live view of America’s greatest scenic drive. If you’re planning a trip—or just dreaming about one—these webcams are a great way to see what you can discover.

Here are just a few webcams along  the route.

Mississippi Headwaters

Want to see where the Mississippi River starts? At Itasca State Park in northern Minnesota, you’ll find Lake Itasca, the starting point of the mighty Mississippi. Here, the river is less than 20 feet wide and can be walked across via a series of stepping stones. Check out the webcam in the summer to find visitors wading in the shallow waters of America’s most iconic river.

St. Paul City Hall Cam

Minnesota’s capital city of Saint Paul sits on the banks of the Mississippi River, and this webcam scrolls through several different cams throughout the metro area, including several that overlook the river. 

Mississippi River Flyway Cam

The Iowa-based Raptor Resource Project is a non-profit organization that helps preserve and protect habitats for eagles, falcons, hawks and other birds throughout the Midwest. This webcam is located in Brice Prairie, Wisconsin, and shows avian activity along the Mississippi River near La Crosse.

Driftless Area Education & Visitor Center

Located near another one of the Great River Road’s Interpretive Centers, this webcam shows traffic on the Mississippi River near the Driftless Area Education & Visitor Center in Lansing, Iowa.

St. Louis Arch Cams

One of the most iconic sights along the Mississippi River, the Gateway Arch overlooks the river and downtown St. Louis. Gateway Arch Park and Gateway Arch National Park recently underwent a multi-year renovation and expansion, and the park’s cams give visitors several vantage points of this iconic attraction.

Graceland Cam

Get all shook up with this Memphis-based webcam, which gives viewers an up close and personal look at the estate of the late, great King of Rock n’ Roll, Elvis Presley.

Bourbon Street Cam

Get a glimpse of one of America’s liveliest streets with this webcam, which shows the good times rolling in New Orleans’ French Quarter.